Paddle Trip: Back to the Concord River

As the temperature drops, I look to take my touring kayak to rivers (read my posts 5 Tips for Paddling in the Bumper Seasons and 5 Tips for Touring a River in a Kayak ). I hadn't paddled the Concord River in Bedford and Concord, MA in a few years, so Tim (read my post An Unexpected Adventure) and I took a trip down Rt. 128 to Rt. 4 and put in across from the Bedford Boat Landing at the Carlisle Road (Rt. 225) bridge. The day was bright and crisp with a westerly breeze that made for a head wind, which added to the current (we paddled upstream) as a drag on our progress. We weren't in any hurry, though, and as I've stated in past posts, paddling upstream first on a river sure makes the return trip a lot easier. The river is wide just upstream of the bridge, and the breeze blew up a small chop in the middle. Progress was good, though, as we cruised along enjoying the waning color of the late autumn leaves on the banks.

The Concord River is formed by the merging of the Sudbury and Assabet Rivers at Egg Rock near the Concord Battleground and the Minute Man statue. It winds downstream (east/northeast) through Concord, Bedford, Billerica, North Billerica, and Lowell, and empties, ultimately, into the Merrimack. It's a substantial river - wide in most places, which is what you want if you're paddling a touring kayak as we were. 'Yaks in the 14-17' range can be difficult to maneuver on narrow rivers and streams - especially if they have hard bends and currents around obstacles. As we moved farther upstream, we ran into some of these types of narrower sections, but largely, the Concord is well suited to accommodate longer craft. 

Wildlife was mostly quiet, save for a few ducks and geese along the way. I was hoping to spot some deer in the woods on the banks, but had no such luck. The big surprise was seeing painted turtles basking on logs on the north bank, taking advantage of the south westerly sun arc to catch some late October rays. I was surprised to see turtles still active that late in the season with ambient air temperatures in the mid 50's℉, and dropping rapidly when the sun descends in the late afternoon. 

The banks of the river on our route upstream toward Concord are largely uninhabited, with trails on the north bank, and much of the south bank lying within the Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge . As we approached Concord, however, some large private properties with expansive lawns can be viewed on the north bank. Great Meadows has landings for kayaks and canoes. We didn't stop there, but a trail hike in the refuge could be added to a river paddle for a stretch of the legs and some additional interest. We did stop at one point on the north bank for a quick stretch beside one of the riverside trails.

Boat traffic was sporadic, with some small motor craft traveling along. They kept their speeds low , so safety was not a concern - although one two-boat group of fishermen had lines in the water - which is always a hazard to keep wide of, especially when other obstacles are present - like logs and tree limbs, as were in this case. I often find it better to wait in an eddy and time a burst of hard paddling to get clear of other boat traffic. 

There are a couple of interesting bridges to pass under on the way upstream. The stone bridge at Monument Street was built in the late 1800's and the The Old North Bridge at Liberty Street harkens back to colonial days. As we approached the Old North Bridge, rented kayaks were plentiful on the water, with inexperienced paddlers aboard - so a measure of caution passing through this area was warranted.

The Old North Bridge, Concord, MA

We turned south on to the Sudbury at Egg Rock and paddled for another half mile before deciding to turn around and head back toward Bedford. As expected, the current at our sterns was a welcome push and a reward for enduring the same current while paddling upstream. We made great time as we glided with the flow, and we discussed a possible future trip up the Sudbury from the boat launch just upstream form The Old North Bridge.

By the time we got back to the our landing, the sun was already getting low in the west, and the temperature drop was noticeable. I was glad to be off the water. We used Google to find a local pub, and drove over to nearby Acton for some tasty appetizers and a couple of well earned draft beers.

The return trip to the Concord River was a fine paddle in crisp air, with a couple of sites along the way - roughly 4 hours round trip. I'd do it again, and I look forward to heading further up the Sudbury in the future.

- TB on the Water          

        

Catching Up: What's New with CWK

2019 has thus far been a year sadly lacking in new CWK blog posts. Other priorities have pulled me away from posting, and unfortunately, from as much kayaking and waveski surfing as I'd like. Additionally, the purchase of a new vehicle (I swapped out my short bed truck for a small SUV with roof top crossbars) has resulted in a bit of a learning curve to define the best loading/carrying options for my gear. In light of those realities, I decided to post a quick update on 3 topics in development, and to give some insight into what I hope will become more detailed future posts:

1. Attending the New England Paddle Show 2019. I attended the New England Paddle Show at the University of NH this year - for the first time in several years. I was accompanied by my friend Gary, with whom I reconnected recently after many years of taking separate paths. Gary was researching what turned out to be the purchase of his first kayak, and I hope to post in more detail my thoughts on these shows; what to consider when attending one, what gear you might want to purchase there vs. what you might research for a later purchase, what information can be obtained from manufacturer's reps, etc. This topic warrants a full post and will require some due consideration on my part. Look for it soon.

2. Adjusting to Rooftop Carry on a Shorter Vehicle. I learned the hard way that my tie down system was insufficient for my touring kayak when a bungee broke and the front end of my 'yak lifted out of the J-cradle and slid down the side of my Subaru Forester - on the highway at 65 mph! Fortunately, some additional securing held it onto the vehicle, and I was able to safely pull into the breakdown lane and re-secure the 'yak to the cradles (with one minor scratch to my paint). It was unnerving, to say the least, and forced a reconsideration of what anchor points I need to safely secure 2 kayaks for highway travel. I am learning quite a bit about what works and what doesn't, and this adjustment deserves to be fully described in a post of its own - also on the project list.

J-CRADLES MOUNTED ON CROSSBARS

3. A New Addition Has Been Welcomed to My Kayak Collection. In keeping with my penchant for procuring vintage kayaks for specific uses (clearly an illness at this point), I finally got my hands on a much heralded surf kayak I have yearned to obtain for several years: a Cobra Strike SOT. This is a plastic SOT model that surfers speak of in high regard, and I had the opportunity to surf one years ago (thanks Mike from Jenness Beach, NH if you ever read this). A very rare used model (nobody ever sells these boats) became available  close to my location, and I picked it up at a bargain price. It did need some TLC, however, and I am in the process of getting it serviceable and making some minor upgrades. It should be ready to surf within the next couple of weeks, so I will be due for more than one post on this subject. It will be interesting to contrast my 2 vintage surf craft (the Walden Milo Waveksi vs. the Cobra Strike), and to see how they operate in different conditions. I'm looking forward to the adventure.

3 VIEWS OF MY NEW (used) COBRA STRIKE (stripped down):

COBRA STRIKE - SIDE VIEW 

COBRA STRIKE - SINGLE FIN

COBRA STRIKE - FRONT VIEW

If you've been checking this blog for new posts, I apologize for being absent for a while - but it looks like I have some some valuable topics lined up, and maybe some useful insights to offer.


Cheers,

TB on the Water                             

Curated Post: 2018 Tips Learned (video)

Occasionally, I use this blog to post something I run across that I think is of great interest and/or value. I really like this brief video from "Kayak Hipster" on Youtube, discussing the valuable tips he picked up in 2018. Some of these are advanced, but many are useful even to kayakers with little experience:

I'll continue to keep an eye out for good content like this. Let me know what you think in the comments.

- TB on the Water

Advice: Getting There - 5 Considerations for Transporting Your Kayak

With the holiday season in full swing, gift purchasing is an ever present challenge. If you have a kayaker in the family (or maybe you're playing Santa for yourself 😁) crossbars, racks, tie downs, and other related transport hardware could be a welcome addition under the tree. The questions are: what kind of hardware, and where do I start? I purchased a new mini SUV recently, and have been asking myself those questions. Here's a quick hit list of my considerations that might make your search a little easier:  


1. What kind of a vehicle do you have? There's a big difference between a sports sedan, an SUV, and a pick-up truck in terms of what solution is appropriate for your kayak transport. If you have a pick-up bed and a short kayak, you might just get away with laying your 'yak in the bed - maybe with it leaning up against your tailgate, or laying it flat with the tailgate down. Either way, make sure to strap it down and tie a visibility flag to the end that's sticking out the back. If you need to use your roof for transport, you'll need to take additional measures. Minimally, you'll have to put some kind of padding down and strap your 'yak directly to the roof. I wouldn't recommend this - certainly not for long kayaks, or for highway travel. Having roof rails (the factory bars that run parallel along the sides of the roof) makes this arrangement more stable from side to side, but front to back is a much more tenuous proposition - especially if you have to brake hard for some reason. You should seriously consider installing crossbars/loadbars (bars that run perpendicular to the sides of the car, and cross your roof from one side to the other). Crossbars can be mounted on factory roof rails, or with the addition of "feet" that attach to the roof or to the gutter (the edge above the windows that redirects rain water). Crossbars also provide the option of swapping out different cradles/holders for different gear. Take note of how flat or curved your roof slope is when you look at your vehicle from the side; this can determine how much clearance you will have under your crossbars, which can affect where you position them. Finally, if you have a tall vehicle, think about how you will reach the kayak mounting locations - and how that might effect your choice of hardware.

If you have OEM crossbars (like this vehicle)

make sure their load capacity is sufficient  

OEM (original equipment manufacturer) crossbars mounted on side rails

 2. What kind of kayak do you have? A 15' touring sea kayak is a different boat than a short creek 'yak, or a recreational model, or a surf kayak. The length, width, hull shape, and curvature ("rocker") of your kayak will play a large role in determining what hardware will properly support it. For example: my waveski is 26" wide, and 6' long. It will lay flat on top of my new crossbars easily (with the addition of padding), with room to spare. However, my 15' touring boat will require additional accommodation - I usually carry 2 of them, so side by side will not work. They will have to be mounted on their sides, which will require vertical cradles of some sort - which I considered when selecting my crossbars, to make sure I could mount those. See how your boats and your paddling activities determine your solution? It's always a good idea to carefully consider how many, and what kind of kayaks you will be transporting, and adjusting your hardware selections to match that reality.

3. How will you get your kayaks on top of your vehicle? If you have a tall SUV, or are using the roof of your pick-up to carry your kayaks, height might be a challenge. This could affect what solution you choose. For instance, there are kayak cradles/saddles with rollers that allow you to lean the bow of your boat onto a roller and push/roll the kayak into the correct position. This might help if you're short and/or by yourself. There are crossbars that have a section that slides out from the side of the car and hinges downward, so you can put the kayak on it, then slide it back on to the roof. Each of these are more expensive options than standard gear. If you're using upright cradles, you may not be able to slide/drag your kayak across one to the other - to center it on the roof. This means lifting from the side of the vehicle may be your only option. You need to be tall enough to reach, in this case - you wouldn't want to try "throwing" your 'yak into the cradles. How you will mount your kayaks will help determine what hardware makes sense - keep your height and physical ability in mind as you consider your options.  

4. Where will you tie your kayaks down? This question may seem obvious if you obtain carriers/holders that have integrated tie down straps, but it it might be more complicated than you think. Tying kayaks near their center is a great location for locking them firmly onto your roof. Dealing with the wind is a another matter - it will push the front end around as you vehicle moves forward, and can push the rear end from side to side as crosswinds and turbulence pass over. Tying the ends down makes sense, especially for long kayaks. If your kayak is longer than your car, what will you tie it to? Fortunately, there are handy ready made loops available that get shut under the hood latch and the rear hatch latch (that sounds funny 😊). There might be something you could connect to a trailer hitch in the rear. Think about the ends as well as the middle when it comes to tie down locations. If you're planning on using crossbars and padding alone, try to figure out what will keep your center straps in place, without sliding. Anchor them by winding them for a turn or two around the side rail feet.

5. How much $ do you want to spend? Ah, my favorite topic when discussing gear. Anyone who has priced out some of the popular brands of roof rack gear knows how pricey it can be. You could easily spend $500.00 for a full new set of feet, crossbars, and cradles/saddles. I would strongly suggest using online tools (available on the manufacturer websites) to configure the right combination of mounting gear for your 'yaks and vehicle, then seeing if you can find it on Craigslist or eBay. Lots of people are selling transport/mounting equipment in good condition (sometimes in the OEM box) at more competitive prices. By all means, if you want to spend the full monty, have at it - but, at least buy from a place that will install the system as part of the deal. Perhaps consider a lesser known brand. Did you know the name brands sell mounting/transport equipment under other brand names at Walmart and Target - at least on their websites? It's true, and it will cost you less. You may not get all the bells and whistles, but that choice is up to you. As for me, I went on the automotive section on Amazon, looked up my vehicle, and found a nice pair of crossbars - specific to my make and model, brand new, with a 150lb. load capacity, and aerodynamic to boot...all for around $100.00. Trust me - that's cheap. They look great too. So, take your time and do your homework. You could save hundreds of dollars. 

Choosing the right transport/mounting gear can make life a lot easier when you want to get to the water. Why not make the challenge about your paddle trip, instead of how to get your kayak there? That way, you can put your real effort into the best part of the adventure.

Merry Christmas, Happy belated Hanukkah, and Happy New Year - here's wishes for a great one!


- TB on the Water           







                                            

Waveski: Back to the Surf!

After staying away from the waves for most of the summer, I've finally gotten back to the surf a few times in the last 2 months. Fall is the best season for surf here in New England, in my opinion (read my post Why NH Summer Surfing Sucks). Hurricanes pump regular wave action into the Gulf of Maine, parking options open up, and you don't have to keep an eye out for bathers who invariably swim directly in front of your line. The summer water temperatures carry over for a few weeks, so you can get away with a spring/fall wetsuit and no hood or heavy gloves are required. Traffic to and from the beach is largely gone too, so getting to the waves is much quicker, and this offers multiple location options (sometimes even during the same day). As long as the sun is shining and the wind is down, conditions can be quite comfortable.  

Like getting back to anything you haven't done in a while, there's always a bit of rust to knock off when you start up again. Add to that some trepidation caused by aging and one too many gnarly scenarios, and a little knot can hit your stomach if you're heading out into anything bigger than you're sure about. Even small waves can be a challenge to your nerve (hey, we're not all Laird Hamilton, right? 😉). Getting those first few rides, and regaining your confidence is crucial. I was fortunate to get those rides over Labor Day weekend - on a freakishly hot day for early September in New England. I surfed in shorts and a 2ml vest, and I felt like I was in bath water for the session. I caught a bunch of rights off a break pretty close to shore at Jenness Beach in Rye, NH - at least, until a dad and his two little boys started working the shore break with boogie boards down the line from me. Them and a bather enjoying the last of summer water temps shut me down from that spot, and I nearly called it a day when my wife showed up at the beach to get some sun. After a few minutes of consideration, though, I decided to try the left that looked like it was shaping up off the point at the north end of the beach (I know it as "Straw's"). That was a decision I was very happy with.

Straw's Point: 

The left peels off the point and gets pinched between the rocks and a rip current that forms in a consistent spot a little farther south, off the beach. This has the effect of slowing the wave and holding it up as it reforms 1-2 times - making it surfable all the way to the sand, just about. Then, the rip is a handy escalator back out to the break. A couple of board surfers were the only others playing on this left, but they paddled far out past the point to catch the occasional larger waves that hit in every third or fourth set. I noticed a decent break forming somewhat farther in to shore along the rocks - which I now had all to myself. The good size ones were pitching up to 4 feet, which can be a fun surf on a waveski, if the waves are strong enough and fast enough. They were. I caught at least 20 before I called it quits. It was also a test of my nerve, because I got stuck in the rip last season - and got a little help from a boardie who towed me in close enough to shore to get my feet down. Aside from heavy seaweed right at the beach, conditions couldn't have been better for my first real surf in a few months.

Nahant Beach, Lynn Beach and Lynn Shore Drive:

Nahant Beach and Lynn Beach can pitch some great waves - algae can be a problem, though, and so can the smell. 

Since then, I've been out a couple more times - and have been paddling onto some larger waves. I've traveled to at least one spot I haven't surfed in over a year (Nahant Beach), and tried a brand new one (for me, anyway - the north end of King's Beach in Swampscott ). I've had the chance to test out my new seat, which works great after I shaved off some the rear support rim (I kept the side rims, though - they hold me pretty tight without any sliding over the deck). I've also tested a gasket I added to the deck hatch, which works like a charm - I've taken on almost no water.  

With the days getting shorter and a chill in the air, most folks are thinking about a toasty fire and a warm sweater. I'm thinking about the wave forecast.


- TB on the Water     
         





           

           

Paddle Trip: The Merrimack River - from Rocks Village to Merrimacport

As I mentioned in my post The Plumb Island River from Plumb Island, one of the few trips I've paddled over this summer was my first ever paddle on the section of the Merrimack River from the Rocks Village Bridge to Merrimacport. This was a few weeks ago, and I've meant to write a post on it, so here it is:

The Rocks Village Bridge - with the Merrimack River below

The Rocks Village Bridge crosses the Merrimack between West Newbury, MA and and the Rocks Village section of Haverhill, MA. On the West Newbury side (south bank) a concrete boat ramp angles into a flat section of water just upstream from the bridge. A few parallel parking spots are available along the roadside, on a gravel section well off the road. Some foot paths offer alternate routes to the river, but watch out for poison ivy if you use them - it's plentiful in the undergrowth. Depending on the tide, the carry to the water can be over some muddy banks, but the footing is pretty firm, and you won't sink in. The Merrimack River is highly influenced by the tide in this section, as the first dam on the river is farther upstream - the Great Stone Dam in Lawrence. It's very important to know what direction the tide is flowing when you set out. Ebb tide (outbound) will work with the river current to create a strong pull downstream. This can cause areas of great difficulty to paddle against if you're heading in the opposite direction. Flow tide (inbound) is strong enough here to flow against the river current, and carry you upstream. The tide changes will always be delayed relative to the mouth of the river at Newburyport. Use tide charts like this one to determine the best time to launch. 

I launched on a hot July day, later than advisable relative to the tide change, and paddled downstream against the flow tide. Even with the river current in my favor, paddling against the flow was a bit of a slog - but, I made steady progress. I stayed close to the south bank to avoid the boating channel that runs largely next to the north bank. Power boats and jet skis are abundant on the river when the weather is hot. The occasional boat wake waves rose to a foot and a half in height after a few of the passes, so I kept on eye on them, and didn't get too close to the bank, where they washed out. I paddled past (or underneath) some boats docks, but much of the river bank was undeveloped. 

About a half mile downstream from the bridge, I spied something curious off my starboard (right) side on the remaining river bank (soon to be covered by the tidal flow). At first, it looked like a shiny rock - then I saw it move. I paddled closer to get a better look and discovered it was a mammoth (for these parts anyway) snapping turtle. It had a head the size of a small log, and a shell big enough to accommodate two humps instead of the more common one hump. It didn't seem to mind my presence, and continued with its business of devouring a foot long carp that had washed up dead on the river bank. I watched it snap and tear chunks off the fish for a few minutes, then I moved on to leave it to its scavenging. I have no real idea, but I wouldn't be shocked to learn a snapper that big was 50 years old - it had certainly been lurking in these waters for a long time. 

Not long after, I started to cross paths with other kayakers and a paddleboarder riding the flow tide back upriver. One mentioned in passing that they were coming from a sandbar downstream where folks gather at low tide and anchor their boats or beach their kayaks. I set this as my destination and paddled on.

It was tough progress against the flow tide, but the breeze was cooling in the heat, and the riverbank kept my interest with gnarled tree roots and surprising small sand beaches or marshy areas. As I approached the bend in the river near Merrimacport, the river widened, and people were water skiing and playing on jet skis. I was careful to stay well clear of the action, but folks were being reasonable with their fun and I wasn't in any danger. A couple of friendly "hello"s from some anchored boats near the riverbank let me know everyone was having a relaxed day on the water.  

I could see the sand bar and remaining anchored boats downstream, but I decided to take a detour into a small tributary river (really a creek) winding south into a marshy area along the bank. This is the Indian River, and it appears to be the outflow for the watershed that forms Mill Pond in West Newbury - a recreational area open to the public. The Indian River is largely hidden in the marsh grass, and was quiet to river traffic. Birds flitted back and forth across the water, and a fish splashed nearby as I paddled further into the marsh. I eventually came to an impassible foot bridge with a small rubble stone dam under it. A small pond was formed on the upstream side of the dam, and I saw a rope swing kids use to hurl themselves into the water, apparently. After getting out to stretch my legs on the footpath that runs to the bridge, I re-launched for the return trip.

Upon re-entering the Merrimack, I immediately felt the power of the flow tide at my back, and was pushed along at a far more rapid rate than my downstream paddle. What took me an hour to paddle downstream, took me less than half that to return. Passage under the bridge was no problem, and there was no choke point current to battle. I slid along the placid water over the mud flat bank and back to shore - with a shorter carry back to the roadside now.

I never did make it all the way to the sandbar, but I'll keep that for a future trip. Considering I live 20 minutes from the launch point, I really have no excuse not to spend more time on this stretch of the Merrimack. I'm glad I finally got around to paddling this area, and I look forward to exploring it more in the future.

Rivers can be a fun alternative to ocean kayaking - just take care to understand each river section's particular challenges (read my post 5 Tips for Touring a River in a Kayak). Then, head out on the current and see what you find. You might be surprised.

- TB on the Water       

    

                                               

Paddle Trip: The Plumb Island River from Plumb Island (Refuge Lot 1)

I'm back for the first paddle trip post in some time; due to a busy schedule, it's been a while since I've gotten out on the water (with the exception of a recent paddle down the nearby Merrimack River - read my post The Merrimack River - from Rocks Village to Merrimacport). I managed to carve an early morning paddle out of this past Saturday's schedule, though, and it was well worth the effort.

I've written about paddling Plumb Island Sound in posts like Pavilion Beach to Sandy Point and Plumb Island Sound - A Natural Beauty, but this trip on the Plumb Island River was the first time I put in at the National Wildlife Refuge Public Boat Launch. I have been remiss not to take advantage of this resource in the past, but I will surely take advantage of it in the future. I was joined on this trip by Tim (see my post An Unexpected Adventure) who has also been tied up with a busy work schedule, but provided the refuge pass we used to park in Lot 1. We arrived fairly early (around 8:15 a.m.) with the expectation Lot 1 would fill up fast. It's the primary parking location for folks hitting the beach on the ocean side of the island. Only a few cars were there at that point, though, so we had our choice of parking spots. We drove down the short dirt track to the boat launch, dropped the boats, then parked back in the lot for the duration. 

The boat launch is a concrete decline into the Plumb Island River which ends at two tall marker posts. It's grooved across the surface for traction, and I didn't find it too slippery. The angle is slightly steep for getting into your kayak with maximum stability, but it's not so steep as to make it precarious. The tide was outbound, but just recently, so we had plenty of depth beneath us. We opted to paddle southwest, against the tide, toward Plumb Island Sound - rather than with the tide through Plumb Bush Creek, under the bridge, and into the Joppa Flats and the mouth of the Merrimack. We knew we'd have the tide with us on the return trip, so getting some harder paddling out of the way up front made sense.  

The Plumb Island River is fairly wide at the launch - maybe 30 yards across, but you have to keep an eye out for occasional boat traffic crossing from the Merrimack to Plumb Island Sound, and the mouth of the Ipswich River beyond. There are tidal creeks meandering to the east (port side/left) that could offer a paddle diversion at full high tide, allowing you to get closer to the west side of the island. We stayed on the main branch of the Plumb Island River until it turned almost due west. Then, we paddled right (northeast) to head further into the marsh and to explore what might be seen there.

Shortly thereafter, we came across some numbered marker poles with small metal flags on them. It took me a good while to realize we were on the water trail I had read about during previous research of the area. This is a great amenity provided for paddlers, and a fantastic paddle venue - especially for beginners. The conditions were not too challenging (although, be aware of surrounding marsh mud walls (read my post Safety is a Mindset)) as the tide drains out), but we were still paddling against the outbound current - even deep into the marsh. We passed a marker that was labeled 8 END which appears to be the end of the water trail. Using this marker as a return point, we explored 2 creeks (one to the southwest and one to the north) a bit further, but ultimately got chased out by greenhead flies. I managed to squash 3 of these relentless, "Terminator" like monsters that will not die - a veritable massacre for my part. I felt a great sense of accomplishment as I washed fly mush off my hands in the brackish water.

The return paddle picked up substantial speed by moving with the tide, rather than against it as before. We moved quickly back down the water trail, and I could see various sand bars forming as the water level dropped. This area might be fun at low tide, if the river is still navigable by a kayak. There would be multiple opportunities to stretch your legs on sand bars, and maybe play a bit in the water (warming up nicely as the tide waned). We paddled south around the bend, further down Plumb Island - my having confused us, and not taken the left to head back upstream, toward the launch. The depth was getting pretty shallow across a wide stretch of the river. Deep hulled boats would not make it through, or so it looked. We had the widest part of the river to ourselves. We had crossed the threshold to where the river flows out to the sound. Not wanting to get too far out from our return (we were already close to 4 hours paddling), we turned around and paddled north again against the tide, until we re-crossed the drainage threshold, and rode the tide back outbound toward the launch. After a brief diversion past the launch to get within view of the bridge, we turned around again and paddled against the tide, one final time, to the launch and the end of our journey. 

The view west from the Plumb Island Turnpike Bridge

For the first paddle back (with Tim, anyway) in a while, this was a great relaxing morning under the sun, on a flat tidal river, in the beautiful marshland of a National Wildlife Refuge.

Life could be worse, for sure.

- TB on the Water                           

                    

Caution: Riptides and Currents (and how to deal with them)

The ocean (and rivers, for that matter) can throw a variety of hazards at you, not the least of which is the force of moving water in the form of riptides and other currents. I have been caught in both, and they are not to be taken lightly. Keeping your cool, avoiding any additional challenges, and getting yourself out of the predicament as soon as possible should be your goals. Prior planning can help, and here are a few suggestions to help you avoid or deal with being caught in one of these hazards:

Riptides are not always visible, but sometimes you can see (and avoid) them 

Riptides...

I typically run into these while surfing my waveski. Riptides are formed when ocean water is piled up in a spot where it has nowhere to go, and it needs to find a path back out to sea. This can be at the corner of a cove, next to a sandbar, in-between cross-currents, or, frankly, anywhere along a beach where the shape of the bottom funnels water into a current that moves along, or away from the shore. Riptides can be extremely powerful. If you're a bather, they can take your feet out from under you, and carry you rapidly away from the shore. If you're on a paddle craft, they can change your direction in unexpected ways, and potentially swamp your boat. We've (almost) all heard the advice to swimmers: don't swim against the rip, swim perpendicular to it, or let it take you out the back of the current, then swim perpendicular to it. This is easier said than done, and it's hard not to panic if you're caught in a rip, but you must stay as calm as you can if you want to get out of it. If you're on a paddle craft, rule# 1 is not to leave your craft. Even if it's swamped, it will still have some buoyancy, which can help keep you afloat, and help to save your energy. Float with the rip until you are in calmer water, then address any water in your cockpit. Once you get back in/on your craft, look for a safe place to land - where you can finish bailing out, and get yourself and your gear back in order. Rule# 2 is a prophylactic - always, always, where a PFD (lifejacket) - if you get separated from your 'yak, you will still have buoyancy to help you keep your head above water, and to keep your energy up while you deal with getting out of the current. Rule# 3 is to hang on to your paddle. Your paddle can provide a little bit of additional buoyancy, but, even better, it can help you swim out of the current. Slide your grip very wide on your paddle shaft, and use the blades as part of your swim stroke; in essence, you are giving yourself giant hands. This will propel you through the water with much less energy than swimming alone, and, coupled with the buoyancy of your PFD, will keep you skimming along the surface, with much less drag than if you were deeper in the water. Rule# 4 is to use waves to your advantage. As I mentioned earlier, I mostly run into riptides while surfing my waveski. These can be handy escalators out through the surf zone to pick up another wave, but if you wipe out in the middle, and lose your craft (I have), you can get stuck between the incoming surf, and the outbound rip current. Save your energy for the next wave, then try to use its energy to get you out of the rip. Sometimes, it can get you close enough to shore to get your feet down - so you can walk your way out. Use the paddle technique previously described to amplify the effectiveness of the wave force. This has helped me on a few occasions. Also, pay particular attention when the overall tide is outbound - this can add power to the rip, and make it even more menacing. Check out this helpful entry on the Beachapedia page.

Learn to see the current flow when you look at the water (looks like it's headed to the right in this image)

Currents...

Currents can happen anywhere. A rip is a type of current, but so is river flow, tidal flow, differences in speed between 2 sections of water, increased flow speed at choke points and around obstacles, etc. Currents can be large and surprisingly powerful, and can carry you long distances from where you were headed, and sometimes toward danger (like active boat lanes). In most cases, paddling against a current is fruitless - or, at least, a huge expenditure of energy. It's much better to work with a current than against it. I've been caught in currents that didn't give me much of a choice but to cross them as best I could (read my post The Mouth of the Danvers River & Nearby Islands), until I reached flatter waters. Try to angle across the current to the nearest calmer water - even an eddy will do. This will give you a chance to consider a strategy for getting out of the area. Recognize that the current will carry you even while you are paddling across it, so look ahead to where you might end up, not at what's directly in front of you. You've encountered this phenomenon if you've ever paddled through an area with moored boats, and found yourself crossing behind a boat when you were sure you'd be in front of it (read my post Paddle Trip: Pavilion Beach to Sandy Point). That's OK, so long as you safely get across. Try to estimate the speed and strength of a current before you attempt to cross it; use objects like buoys or rocks to see how fast the water is moving. If the current is close to shore, sometimes it's just easier to get out of your 'yak and drag it along the shore.

Currents can form waves - even waves big enough to crest. They can seriously put you in a hazardous scenario. If you get caught in a current, keep your cool - you'll need it. If you capsize, stay with your boat and hold on tight - you're in for a ride that may carry you some distance. Remember, though, if you're with with your kayak, you may at some point get the opportunity to get back in it, and to paddle to a safer spot. Plus, you'll be more visible to other boaters, or to rescuers if you're next to a larger object like your kayak. 

The first step in dealing with riptides and other currents is to learn to spot and avoid them. They won't always be directly visible, but the conditions that generate them might be. Watch for land features, narrowing of waterways, rivermouths, obstacles - anything that might speed up a section of water relative to what's around it. Be aware of tidal conditions, and remember that tide changes can cause currents that can help or hinder you. It's sure easier paddling back home with an inbound tide pushing you from behind, then it is fighting an outbound tide. Work with the water, not against it - in most cases, the water will win.

Stay safe, go with the flow, and keep your cool. Being more in tune with the water will help, and will make you appreciate its power and its beauty.

- TB on the Water                                            

Advice: Spring is Back! Plan Accordingly.

Bring it on! I'm ready for Spring. We have passed the vernal equinox, and the sun is hanging longer in the day. Coming off a series of nor'easters, and mercifully, a (hopefully) final one that missed us largely to the south, southern New England is slowly melting out of the snow. Rivers are high, and the air will soon gain a scent of new, green growth. I know I need it - I'll bet others do too.

Here comes the Sun!

I've been spending a little time scouting some target paddling locations, picking up some minor gear improvements (a new waveski seat), and trying to ease myself back into some kind of paddling/carrying shape (kettlebells are great for the shoulders). I think a few weeks out to the paddling season (I know, better paddlers than me are probably out right now) is a good time to envision some highlights of your upcoming spring, summer, and fall. Even if you only get to execute on a couple of them, you're priming the imaginary pump for future paddling seasons.That can't be a bad thing, and some research has shown anticipating an event can increase your experience of pleasure (here's one paper on the subject from researchers at Cornell University) - so why not luxuriate a little in your fantasy paddling trip. Do this for a couple of weeks, then block out your calendar. The older I get, the more I realize scheduling can be more of a tool than it is a prison. 

I've said it before, but I will continue to repeat it; Spring is the most dangerous time of year for paddlers, in my opinion. It's the time of year when folks want to get out on the water as quickly as possible to enjoy the long awaited sun and warmer air temperatures - and to forget about how cold the water still is. Remember the mantra: dress for the water, not for the air (read my post 8 Tips for Dressing Right for Your Kayaking Adventure). The winter will linger in the water far longer than it does on the land - and it could kill you if you don't treat it with respect and plan accordingly (read my post Please, Stop the Kayaking Deaths! (proper risk management)).

Watch the Coast Guard perform a cold water rescue in Portsmouth, NH:

I like to keep the early paddling trips shorter, and in more protected waters than later in the season. This gives me a chance to re-build skills and conditioning that have atrophied over the winter. I am also careful about river paddling trips in the Spring, as water levels are high, and flow is generally faster. That can be useful in a typically smaller river that might not provide sufficient depth in the dryer seasons, but it could be dangerous in a river that is hemmed in by steep banks or other natural and man made features. Scout Spring river locations carefully, and leave the rapids to the white water kayakers and rafters (read my post 5 Tips for Touring a River in a Kayak). 

A full review of your gear is necessary for the beginning of the season. Check your kayak, your paddles, your PDF, clothing...everything - to make sure it's in good working order. If repairs are needed, get them done asap. Also, check your transportation. Make sure your vehicle is in good shape, and check your crossbars and related hardware to make sure they are structurally sound and solid. Check the condition of your straps and other tie down gear to make sure you have what you need, and that they are safe and strong. Consider purchasing any season passes (if they are required) for locations you will visit more than once. Add any additional gear that might make your trips safer and more efficient - like a headlamp, a water resistant watch, fore and aft boat lights, communications equipment, etc. I just purchased a new waterproof map case to help aid my navigation this season. With any new gear purchases, read reviews, carefully consider features, and imagine how you will use them when you're on the water.

If you're planning on doing any fishing from your 'yak, check all your fishing gear, rod holders, and required permits - then schedule your trips for the times and locations best suited to better your odds of hooking a few. Also, consider how you're going to preserve any keepers for the trip home.

The birds are singing, flowers will soon be in bloom, and the sun will shine warm upon our faces. Paddling season is upon us. Mind the water temperatures, upgrade your safety gear and knowledge, plan your trips thoughtfully, and prepare to enjoy.

We survived another winter - now comes our reward.

- TB on the Water  



                   

Curated Post: Don't Blow a Drysuit Gasket

As part of the changes/additions I will be making to this blog (as referenced in my CWK Celebrates its 30th Post! post), I will be adding some curated content when I don't see a way I could improve on the topic being written about. I will publish content I believe is important (or should be) to kayakers, and is educational as well.

This particular article from Canoe & Kayak, written by Conor Mihell is a great example of a well written and photographed short guide on dry suit gasket repair. I've written in previous posts like 8 Tips for Dressing Right for Your Kayaking Adventure that you should consider a dry suit purchase if you intend to push the boundaries of the season and temperatures in which you'll be paddling. I bought one a couple years back, and sadly, haven't made much use of it. I've been trying to figure out how to shorten the legs (mine has socks/booties attached) without damaging the suit. I'm going to make that more of a priority, so I can put that suit to good use for the increased safety it offers - especially in cold springtime waters. I also intend to give the gaskets a thorough going over, and if they need repair, the first guide I will turn to is this article:

Don't Blow a Gasket

How to replace drysuit seals

May 01, 2017 By Conor Mihell    

I'll never forget the first time I ripped a neck gasket. I was three days into a two-week solo sea kayak trip on Lake Superior's north shore. It was early May and ice still sheathed the sheltered bays; my drysuit was a critical margin of safety against the deadly cold water. When the latex seal shredded, so did my confidence. I fretted away the cold evening. The next morning I resolved to jury-rig a duct tape repair. It was ugly but it worked.

When I got home I replaced my first gasket--a project I've repeated just about every two seasons ever since. Neck, wrist and ankle gaskets are a drysuit's weakest links. Fortunately, they're easy to replace at home. Here's what you'll need:

• 
  
• New latex gaskets (can be ordered from your drysuit's manufacturer or purchased at your local paddling shop)
• Aquaseal adhesive (one small tube is enough to install one neck gasket and two wrist gaskets, with some to spare)
• Sturdy cardboard (or better, ¼-inch plywood) cut in a circle, 10.25-inch in diameter; sand smooth if using plywood
• Sturdy cardboard (or better, ¼-inch plywood) cut in a "donut"-shaped ring, with an outer diameter of 10.25 inches and an inner diameter of 7.25-inch. Cut this ring in two to create two U-shaped pieces and sand smooth if using plywood
• Sturdy cardboard cut in a 8-inch-diameter circle
• 1 medium soup can (19 oz.) or yogurt tub (22-24 oz.) for replacing wrist and ankle gaskets
• 60-grit sandpaper
• Two-sided tape; masking tape; waxed paper
• 8-12 spring clamps
• Scissors
• 303 Protectant

**READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE AT Canoe & Kayak: DON’T BLOW A GASKET    


Do yourself a favor and the read the rest of Conor's article, and maybe check out some of his other posts on Canoe & Kayak.

- TB on the Water